For some obvious and other not-so-obvious reasons, I haven’t been traveling as much as I once did. The obvious reasons mostly involve COVID-19. The not-so-obvious reasons include getting a new puppy and having a day job—these things tend to limit when, where, and how I can travel. But a little over a year ago, I moved to the Upper Peninsula and I realized that even though I’m sticking closer to where I live, I’m still experiencing new things all the time. I asked myself, “Why am I waiting for some big, fantastical sign to tell me to start writing again?” And so, this little series was born.
To kick things off, we took a short trip to Tahquamenon Falls and Sault Ste. Marie. It was my first trip to the Soo ever and my first visit to the falls during winter.
Tahquamenon in Winter
If you’ve heard of the UP, you’re probably familiar with this place—even if you usually mess up the spelling. Tahquamenon is one of the most popular parks in the Michigan state parks system. The Upper Falls are nearly 50 feet high and the Lower Falls, though smaller, are charming in their own right.
I grew up in the metro-Detroit area, and my family does not go camping (maybe I’ll convert them someday???). This park was my first visit to the UP in August of 2015, so I think I’ll always enjoy coming back. It’s got so much to offer: accessible overlooks, trails, campgrounds, and even a restaurant + brewery. Lake Superior isn’t too far either—Whitefish Point is just a little bit further north and offers lake views, great birding opportunities, and a lighthouse and museum.
This was my first visit to the area during winter, and it was a lot busier than I thought it would be. There were plenty of visitors on snowmobiles—a popular winter activity across the entire UP. The cold made sure everyone kept moving though, so it never felt like we were fighting to see the view. There was even a moment where I had the Upper Falls to myself at the last overlook.
Freezing Temps but Bluebird Skies
Although the temperatures were extreme, the skies were crystal clear and bright blue all day. I had to dig up my sunglasses for the first time in weeks. We bundled up with layers upon layers, I stuck hand warmers into my boots, and we wouldn’t let Cooper out of the car for too long at a time. He didn’t seem to notice the cold until the sun began to set—when it suddenly went from 5 below to 20 below in a matter of minutes.
Morning Birding
The eastern UP and the Soo act as a funnel for all sorts of interesting bird species. A northern hawk owl was reportedly seen just south of town, so we parked our car near the spot both Saturday and Sunday mornings looking for it. While we never saw the owl, we spotted tons of rough-legged hawks, snowy owls, bald eagles, ravens, northern shrikes, and both ruffed grouse and sharp-tailed grouse. In the woods near Tahquamenon, we saw and heard golden-crowned kinglets—they’re so tiny, you wonder how they don’t freeze immediately in the extreme cold.